Shoe and method of manufacturing the same



Oct. 27, 1936. v F. N. LA CHAPELLE SHOE AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME Filed Aug. 25, 1934 Patented Oct. 27, 1936 UN TE l: STTS SHOE AND METHOD .THE

OF MANUFACTURING SAME Fred N. La Chapelle, Beverly, Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application August 23,

14 Claims.

The present invention relates to shoes :and methods of manufacturing the same and is herein illustrated in its application to stitchdown shoes and their manufacture.

Objects of the present inventionare ;to=.improve and facilitate the lasting of shoes and particularly the lasting of the toes of stitchdown shoes. it is a further object of the invention to provide a stitchdown shoe-construction requiring no temporary lasting fastenings at the toe end of the shoe.

The invention is applicableto eitheritwo-sole or three-sole stitchdown shoes and their manufacture and is herein illustrated in its application to the manufacture of the two-sole construction. A three-sole stitchdown shoe made in accordance with the present invention would be provided with an insole of the same size and peripheral contour as the last bottom, and a middle sole of substantiallythe same construction as the extension insole-hereinillustrated. For convenience the term extension sole will be hereinafter employed in referring to both the illustrated extension insole and a middle sole of like construction.

In its application to methods of manufacturing shoes, thepresent invention, in one of its aspects, consists in assembling on alastshoe parts including an upper and an extension sole provided with a toe lasting member, positioning the lasting member above the toe end of the upper, and wiping the lasting member over the toe end of the upper order to shape the upper to the last. In its application to the stretching of the uppers of stitchdown shoes over their lasts, the invention, in'another of its aspects, consists in assembling one last shoe parts including an upper and an extension sole the upper surface of which at its toe end has the same outline as the bottom of the toeend of the last, and presenting the shoe to a pulling over machine or otherwise performing the pulling over operation whereby the upper is stretched lengthwise and widthwise of the last and has the margin at its toe end temporarily attached to the'bottom of the insole. After the lasting operation, the toe lasting member 'remainsin' engagement with the toe end of the upper therebyholding it in lasted condition and obviating the use of temporary fastenings for holding the upper at itstoe end in lasted conditionuntil it'ispermanently secured to the insole.

A featureof the invention is to be recognized in alasted stitchdown shoe having an extension sole the toe portion of which is provided with an outwardly-beveled margin which, as illustrated in thedrawing,extends'rearwardly of the shoe to theregion of the tip line, the upper surface of the toe-portion of said extension sole having the same outline 'as the bottom 'ofthe toe portion -'of "the last, 1 the toe 1 portion of the upper being 1934, Serial No. 741,108

secured by fastenings, herein illustrated as a sewn seam, to the beveled margin of the extension sole and turned outwardly therefrom. The portion of .the illustrated extension sole is provided with a' welt formed from the sole blank, 1

the outturned margin of the toe portion of the upper being lasted to the bottom face of said welt While the. remaining portion of the outturned margin of the upper is lasted-to the top ofthe sole margin.

These and other aspects and features of the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawing and pointed .out in the appended claims.

In the drawing,

Fig. l is aperspectiveview of a last with the novel insole and lasting strip provided by-the present invention temporarily attached to :its bottom, a portion of thetoe end of the insole being. cut away and the lasting strip spaced; from the. edge face of the insole in order more clearly to illustrate its construction;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of an upper assembled, pulled over, and temporarily attached 'at its toe end to the margin of .a-ninsole such asathat illustrated intFig. 1, the lasting stripbeing'locatedsubstantially in the plane of the tipline;

Figf3-is a perspective-view of the toeeend of the upper after lasting;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the toe end of the lasted upper after the pulling-overtacks have been withdrawn and the margin oflthe upper turned outwardly under the lasting strip;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of thetoe endrof the lasted upper illustrating in section the seam whereby the upper materials are securedsto the margin of the toe end of the insole;

Fig. 6 is a perspective View of the toe end of the completed shoe illustrating in section tthe seam whereby the upper materials are secured to the toe end of the insole and the through-andthrough stitching whereby the welt and the outsole are attached to the margin of the shoe, and

Fig. 7 is a vertical transverse section through a portion of the toe end ofa shoe on its'last illustrating an alternative construction.

In the drawing, an extension sole Ill embodying features of the present invention is illustrated in its application to the manufacture of twosole stitchdown shoes. Referring to Fig. 1,the' extension sole H), which in the illustrated construction is an extension insole, is illustrated in connection with an inverted last l2 to which it is temporarily attached by tacks I4. The last-engaging surface of the portion of the insole for- 5 ward of the tip line has the same outline as the corresponding portion of the last bottom while the remaining portion of the-insole is extended beyond the edge of the last bottom to receive the out-turned margin of the-upper.

toe

the edge of the toe end of the last bottom and combined therewith a lasting member or strip it which preferably is formed from the insole blank by cutting a slit IS in the insole blank beginning at a point in the region of the tip line at one side of the blank and extending around the toe and back to the region of the tip line at the opposite side of the blank thereby severing the strip from the body of the insole blank while leaving it attached to the extended margin of the insole in the region of the tip line. The slit is arranged to register with the edge of the last bottom and preferably is inclined outwardly therefrom from top to bottom in order to provide the insole with a beveled margin 22 adapted to receive a seam 20 (Fig. 5) whereby the upper materials are secured to the toe of the insole. It will be seen that the inner edge face 26 of the lasting strip it has a bevel corresponding to the bevel provided in the edge face 22 of the insole. This construction of the inner edge face of the lasting strip reduces to a minimum the frictional engagement of the lasting strip with the upper during the toe-lasting operation and thus measurably facilitates that operation.

In order to permit the margin of the toe end of the upper to be turned inwardly over the insole Ill while the remainder of said margin is turned outwardly, as illustrated in Fig. 2, the upper and lining have their margins severed at opposite sides of the shoe in the region of the tip line. In order that the upper and lining may readily accommodate themselves to the position of the lasting strip H5 in the finished shoe, as shown in Fig. 6, the upper is severed at right angles to its edge face, as indicated at 26 in Fig. 2, while the margin 28 of the lining is severed on a line extending outwardly and heelwardly from a point coinciding with the inner extremity of the cut 26 in the margin of the upper at an angle of approximately 45 to said cut.

'The preferred method of making stitchdown shoes in accordance with the present invention consists in temporarily attaching the insole 10 to the last bottom, positioning the beveled edge face 22 of the toe end of the insole in alinement with temporarily attaching the insole to the last bottom by means of tacks I l. The upper 30 is then assembled on the last in any convenient manner whereupon the lasting strip [6 is bent upwardly of the shoe toward the plane of the tip line. While the lasting strip is held in this position the toe end of the upper is drawn forwardly of the last between the inner edge face 24 of the lasting strip and the toe portion of the last. The shoe is now ready for the pulling-over operation. Because of the construction of the insole it which permits the margin of the upper at its toe end to be turned inwardly and attached to the margin of the insole, this operation may be performed by a pulling-over machine, if desired. The sides and heel end of the upper may now be lasted in any known manner, for example, by means of a machine such as that disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,117,087, granted November 10, 1914, on an application of Adam H. Prenzel. After the sides and heel end of the upper have been lasted the lasting strip 5 is wiped over the toe end of the upper bringing said strip from the position illustrated in Fig. 2 to the position illustrated in Fig. 3 and thereby shaping the toe end of the upper to the last. In its position in Fig. 3, the lasting strip is arranged to hold the toe end of the upper in lasted condition until it is permanently secured to the insole. The pulling-over tacks are now withdrawn and the inturned marginal materialsat the toe end of the shoe are turned outwardly into a position in which the grain surface of the upper is adjacent to the under surface of the lasting strip (Fig. 4). In order to secure the upper materials in lasted condition the shoe is presented to a sewing machine, such for example as that disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,864,-

510, granted June 21, 1932, on an application of Bernard T. Leveque. This machine is organized to form a chain-stitch seam 20 (Fig. 5) and to position that portion of the seam which presents a single line of stitching in the angle defined by the outturned margin 33 of the upper and the adjacent portion of the body of the upper. An outsole 32 (Fig. 6) and, if desired, a mock welt 34 may now be secured to the shoe by a lockstitch seam 36 extending through the entire thickness of the margin of the shoe.

In the manufacture of three-sole stitchdown. shoes in accordance with the present invention an insole 38 (Fig. '7) of the same size and peripheral contour as the last bottom is temporarily attached to the last bottom. Preferably the lining 49 is lasted inwardly over the margin of the insole. The temporary fastenings whereby the insole is attached to the last bottom are then removed, and a middle sole of substantially the same construction as the extension insole I0 is secured to the shoe. From this point the shoe is manufactured substantially as above described with reference to the manufacture of the twosole construction.

It is to be understood that the order in which the lasting operations are performed is immaterial to the present invention. If desired the toe lasting operation may be performed before lasting the sides and heel end of the shoe.

It is also to be understood that it is immaterial to the present invention in certain aspects thereof, in what manner the pulling-over operation is performed. If desired it may be performed by means of hand pincers or the lasting strip l6 may be relied upon to pull over the upper and last its toe and in one operation.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That method of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last shoe parts including an upper and an extension sole provided with a toe lasting member, positioning the lasting member above the toe end of the upper and wiping the lasting member over the toe end of the upper in order to shape the upper to the last.

2. That method of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last shoe parts including an upper and an extension sole combined with a lasting strip extending forwardly from the region of the tip line and arranged for wiping engagement with the toe end of the upper, positioning the lasting member substantially in the plane of the tip line of the upper, and wiping the lasting member over the toe end of the upper in order to shape the upper to the last.

3. That method of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last shoe parts including an upper and an extension sole combined with a toe-lasting member, positioning the lasting member substantially in the plane of the tip line of the upper, stretching the upper over the last, and wiping the lasting member over the toe end of the upper in order to shape the upper to the last.

4. That method of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last shoe parts including an upper and an extension sole combined with a lasting strip which is formed from the marginal portion at the toe end of the sole blank by severing said marginal portion from the body portion of the blank while leaving it attached to the unsevered margin of the blank in the region of the tip line, positioning the lasting member substantially in the plane of the tip line of the upper, stretching the upper over the last, and wiping the lasting member over the toe end of the upper in order to shape the upper to the last and to hold it in lasted condition.

5. That method of making stitchdown shoes which comprises assembling on a last shoe parts including an upper and an extension sole the upper surface of which at its toe end has the same outline as the bottom of the toe end of the last, stretching the upper lengthwise and widthwise of the last by applying a pull at the forepart, and temporarily attaching its margin at the toe end to the bottom of the sole.

6. That method of making stitchdown shoes which comprises assembling on a last shoe parts including an upper and an extension sole combined with a toe-lasting strip extending from the region of the tip line at one side of the shoe around the toe end of the extension sole to the region of the tip line at the opposite side of the shoe, positioning the lasting strip above the toe end of the upper, stretching the upper over the last and holding it in stretched condition during the interval between said stretching operation and the toe lasting operation, wiping the lasting strip over the toe end of the upper in order to shape the upper to the last, and turning the margin of the upper outwardly under the lasting strip.

7. That method of making stitchdown shoes which comprises assembling on a last shoe parts including an upper and an extension sole combined with a toe lasting member extending from the region of the tip line at one side of the shoe around the toe end of the extension sole to the region of the tip line at the opposite side of the shoe, positioning the lasting member substantially in the plane of the tip line, stretching the upper over the last, drawing the margin of the toe end of the upper over upon the margin of the extension sole and temporarily attaching it thereto, wiping the lasting member over the toe end of the upper in order to shape the upper to the last, detaching the margin of the upper from the extension sole, turning the margin of the upper outwardly under the lasting member, and securing the upper to the extension sole.

8. That method of making stitchdown shoes which comprises assembling on a last shoe parts including an upper and an extension sole the upper surface of which at its toe end has the same outline as the bottom of the toe end of its last, the toe end of the extension so le having a beveled margin extending outwardly from the edge of the last for the reception, of fastening means, said extension sole being combined with a toe lasting strip extending fromthe region of the tip line at one side of the shoe around the toe end of the extension sole to the region of the tip line at the opposite side of the shoe, positioning the lasting member substantially in the plane of the tip line, stretching the upper over the last, wiping the lasting member over the toe end of the upper in order to shape the upper to the last,

turning the margin of the upper outwardly under the lasting member, and securing the toe end of the upper to the beveled margin of the extension sole. i

9. That method of making shoes which comprises assembling a lined upper on a last, lasting the lining over the margin of an insole on the last bottom, attaching to the shoe bottom an extension sole a portion of which is slit along a line which registers with the edge of the last bottom, lasting a portion of the upper through said slit, and turning the upper outwardly and securing it to the marginal portion of the extension sole.

10. That method of making shoes which comprises assembling on a last shoe parts including an upper and an extension sole combined with a lasting strip extending forwardly from the region of the tip line and arranged for wiping engagement with the toe end of the upper, positioning the lasting member above the toe end of the upper, wiping the lasting member over the toe end of the upper in order to shape the upper to the last, lasting the margin of the lining over an insole on the last bottom, and turning the overlasting margin of the upper outwardly from the last.

11. As a step-product, a pulled-over stitchdown shoe having an extension sole the edge face of which at its toe end only is in registration with the corresponding edge of the bottom of its last, a shoe upper stretched lengthwise and widthwise of the last, the margin of the upper at its toe end extending inwardly of the shoe bottom while the remainder of the margin extends outwardly of the shoe bottom.

12. As a step product, a lasted stitchdown shoe having an extension sole the toe portion of which is provided with an outwardly beveled margin, the upper surface of the toe portion of said extension sole having substantially the same outline as the bottom of the toe portion of the last, the toe portion of the upper being fastened to the beveled margin of the extension sole and turned outward- 1y therefrom.

13. As a step product, a lasted stitchdown shoe having an extension sole the toe portion of which has substantially the same outline as the bottom of the toe end of the last, the toe portion of said sole being provided with a welt formed from the sole blank, the outturned margin of the toe portion of the upper being lasted to the bottom face of said welt while the outturned margin rearwardly of the toe portion of the upper is lasted tothe top of the sole margin.

14. As a step product, a lasted stitchdown shoe having an extension sole the toe portion only of which is provided with an outwardly beveled margin, the upper surface of the toe portion of said sole having substantially the same outline as the bottom of the toe portion of the last, said extension sole being provided with a welt formed from the sole blank and extending around the toe portion of the sole, the outturned margin of the toe portion of the upper being lasted to the bottom face of said welt and fastened to the beveled margin of the toe portion of the sole while the outturned margin rearwardly of the toe portion of the upper is lasted to the top of the outwardly extending margin of the extension sole.

FRED N. LA CHAPELLE. 

